Western
New York Herpetological Society
www.wnyherp.org
© 2001 -
2002 by Western New York Herpetological Society
This
document is for guidance only and should not be used as the sole source of
information. New information is being developed daily. It is recommended that a
concerted effort be made to maintain up-to-date knowledge of the animals of
interest.
Common
Name:
Red Eye Tree Frog
Latin
name:
Agalychnis callidryas
Native
to:
Southern Mexico to Eastern Panama
Size:
Males average about 2 to 2.5 inches (51 – 64 mm)
snout-vent length. Females average 2.5 to 3 inches (64mm – 76 mm) snout-vent
length.
General
appearance:
All red eye tree frogs have their signature red eyes
with vertical pupils and a green back and a creamy white belly. Some specimens
have white spots on their back as well. The feet are yellow to orange in color.
Color and size can vary depending on the geographic location the frog comes
from. Specimens from the northern part of the range tend to be slightly smaller
with blue display flanks. Specimens from the southern part of the range tend to
be larger but have less colorful display flanks.
Housing
requirements:
Enclosure:
Generally speaking, enclosures should be at least
10-gallons in size for a pair of frogs. A good rule is to allow 5 gallons per
frog kept. Cage tops should be half glass and half screen to help keep humidity
levels higher. If possible try to use enclosures that are taller to allow these
frogs places to climb and room for foliage.
Temperature:
These frogs do best at temperature ranges of 60° – 85° F (15° – 30° C),
though long periods of time at their temperature extremes can be unhealthy for
the animals. They do well with average daytime temperatures of about 75°– 80°F (24° – 27° C) and nighttime
temperatures of 70°– 75° F (21° – 24° C).
Heat/Light:
Usually these animals do well at room temperature,
but if needed, an under-tank heater, low wattage incandescent bulb, or ceramic
emitters can be used to raise the temperature of the enclosure. In summer months
steps need to be taken to keep the enclosure cool, such as to make sure the
enclosure is not in direct sunlight and to circulate the air in the room with a
fan or open window. UV light has not been proven to be helpful or harmful to
these animals but if your enclosure contains live plants you
should provide some light for the plants. A 12-hour
photoperiod should be provided and
can be achieved by using a timer.
Substrate:
The substrate provided should be able to help hold
higher humidity levels. A layer of 3 to 5 inches (76 – 127 mm) of substrate
such as orchid bark or potting soil and sphagnum moss can be used. If desired
aquarium gravel can be used on the bottom level for drainage.
Environment:
Because these frogs come from a tropical rain
forest, a higher humidity level of 60% to 70% is a must. Higher humidity levels
can be maintained by regular mistings, appropriate substrate, and partially
cover the cage top. If water droplets begin to form on the glass, the humidity
is probably too high. Red eye tree frogs also love to climb on broad-leaf
plants such as Philodendron, Anthurium, and Mongtera species.
Diet:
Like may amphibians, these tree frogs are
insectivorous. Insects such as crickets, flies, fruit flies,
and just about anything smaller than their mouth.
Crickets are usually the easiest and most readily
available food supply. When feed crickets it is
important to gut load the crickets with a good diet
to provide the best nutrition for your frog. Fresh
water should be provided in a dish for the frogs
because they will rehydrate themselves by soaking in
the disk. They will often drink from the
water accumulated on the plants from misting as
well.
Maintenance:
It is important to mist these frogs on a regular
basis. Depending on your local environment,
cage setup, and substrate you may have to mist as
often as daily to only two to tree times a week.
Owners should also be wary of unfiltered tap water
as it may contain substances harmful to your
frogs. It is best to use filtered and dechlorinated
water for misting and drinking. The enclosure
should be spot cleaned as needed. The enclosure
should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected
regularly to prevent mold from growing in the
substrate. A 5% bleach solution makes an excellent
disinfectant. Be sure to rinse the enclosure
thoroughly after disinfecting. As always, be sure to
wash your hands thoroughly after handling your frogs
or any cage accessories
Other
references or recommended reading:
de
Vosjoli, Phillippe, Robert Mailloux, and Drew Ready. Care and Breeding of
Popular Tree Frogs. Santee, CA: Advanced Vivarium Systems, 1996
“Red-Eyed
Tree Frog.” 1998 Czar Helix. Retrieved 6 September 2002.
<http://www.helixpro.net/anuran/redeye.htm>
“Red
Eyed Tree Frogs.” California Zoological Supply. Retrieved 6 September 2002.
<http://www.calzoo.com/html/redeyedtreefrogs.html>
“Red
Eyed Tree Frogs.” Retrieved 6 September 2002
<http://www.geocities.com/Hollywood/Bungalow/2463/redeye.html>