Western
New York Herpetological Society
www.wnyherp.org
Updated
3/05
© 2001
– 2005 by Western New York Herpetological Society
This
document is for guidance only and should not be used as the sole source of
information. New information is being developed daily. It is recommended that a
concerted effort be made to maintain up-to-date knowledge of the animals of
interest.
Common
Name: Nile Monitor
Latin
Name:
Varanus
niloticus
Note:
Nile monitors are illegal to own in New York State
without a license. If you need to look at a care sheet for this species, you
should think twice about owning a Nile: These are large, powerful lizards that
almost never calm down. Their paranoid attitude leads them to see their keepers
as threats all their lives, and they have no hesitation about defending
themselves with blows from their tail, ripping with their talons, or
bone-crushing bites from their vice like jaws - not to mention projectile
defecation on their perceived aggressors. Almost any other monitor species (with
the exception of the Komodo dragon) is better suited as a pet.
Native
to:
Africa, from Egypt to South Africa. Found anywhere
there is water.
Size:
Typically 4 to 6 feet, although rare 8 foot
specimens are known.
Life
span:
10 to 15 years if given proper care.
General
appearance:
This is a large, powerful lizard with a long neck
and tail. Large powerful limbs are equipped with long talons. A flattened ridge
down the back of the tail helps in swimming. A blue-purple forked tongue darts
in and out of the mouth when the monitor is in motion or interested. The ground
color varies from white to yellow-green, with markings of grey to black forming
a band across the eyes, hashes crossing the mouth, chevrons down the neck,
bands of spots across the body, spots on the limbs, and rings around the tail.
Usually, you will see its threat display - an expanded neck pouch, arched neck,
body held high off the ground, tail cocked to deliver a powerful whipping blow,
and a loud hiss.
Housing
requirements:
Enclosure:
Even a small adult Nile monitor will need a set-up
about the size of a dinner table or large sofa. Larger animals will require an
entire room for an enclosure. When converting a room for a monitor cage,
remember that these animals can dig through dry wall, so you will need to
reinforce the walls. Avoid wire mesh in construction of your cage. This not
only lets the heat and humidity out, but large monitors can dig even through
heavy gauge hardware cloth. Limit ventilation, especially around the warmer
side of the cage, in order to keep the humidity up.
Temperature:
The cool side of the enclosure should be between 75º
and 80º F, with temperatures increasing to 90º to 100º F on the hot end with
basking spots as large as the lizard's body that reach 110º to 130º F. Night
time temperatures can fall to normal room temperature.
Heat/Light:
A warm basking spot should be provided by radiant
light. Racks of flood lamps work well for this, plan on 3 to 6 lamps at 90 to
120 watts each. Adjust the height above the basking spot to reach the ideal
temperature. Supplemental heat can be supplied by large, robust heat mats such
as "pig blankets." The lizard should be able to rest its entire body
on the mat. Ultraviolet light is not necessary.
Substrate:
Dirt provides the best substrate. It needs to be
deep enough to allow the lizard to construct tunnels and burrows naturally.
This provides not only security, but helps with regulating humidity and
temperature. Beware, not all dirt is created equal. Go to a nursery or
landscape supply business and choose a dirt that holds a burrow and humidity,
drains well, is not too dusty, and does not turn to slime when wet. Fill the
monitor's cage to a depth of 2 to 3 feet.
Environment:
Nile monitors require access to a pool of water for
swimming and drinking. Depending on the lizard's size, a cat litter pan or a
concrete mixing trough can serve, although small stock watering tanks may be
necessary for larger individuals. Sturdy branches will allow your lizard to exercise
by climbing. Try to keep the humidity up without drenching the cage. Live
plants are pointless, your Nile monitor will quickly destroy them.
Diet:
Adult Nile monitors can be fed a staple diet of
frozen-thawed mice or rats. Other food items will be eagerly accepted, but are
not necessary for balanced nutrition - feed them only for your entertainment or
that of the monitor. Juveniles can be raised on a diet of insects dusted with
vitamin and mineral powder and appropriately sized rodents.
Maintenance:
Clean up feces and urates as soon as you notice
them, inspect the cage at least once daily for cleanliness. Replace the water
when it becomes soiled or dirty and scrub out the dish. The top substrate can
dry out, but make sure it remains moist (not wet) underneath. Add a few buckets
of water to the cage as necessary to keep the substrate slightly damp.
Other
references or recommended reading:
(Many
of the older books are best avoided due to out of date information or simply
due to inaccuracy.)
Faust,
Robert. Nile Monitors. Hong Kong: Barron's 2001.
Bartlett,
R. D and Bartlett, Patricia. Monitors, Tegus, and Related Lizards. Hong Kong:
Barron's 1996.
Bennett,
Daniel. Monitor Lizards: Natural History, Biology & Husbandry. Frankfurt:
Edition Chimaira 1998.
King,
Dennis and Green, Brian. Goanna: The Biology of the Varanid Lizards. Kensington
NSW Australia: New South Wales University Press 1993.