Western
New York Herpetological Society
www.wnyherp.org
Updated
6/05
©
2001 - 2005 by Western New York Herpetological Society
This
document is for guidance only and should not be used as the sole source of
information. New information is being developed daily. It is recommended that a
concerted effort be made to maintain up-to-date knowledge of the animals of
interest.
Common
Name:
Green Iguana
Latin
Name:
Iguana iguana
Native
to:
Central and South America. Imported iguanas are
generally from Columbia, El Salvador, Honduras, Peru, Mexico, and Surinam.
Size
Range:
Adult iguanas range in size from four to six feet in
length.
Lifespan:
If properly cared for, iguanas should live more than
20 years in captivity.
Special
Note:
While many people consider the green iguana a
beginners pet, nothing is further from the truth. Iguanas require specialized
care and management that is generally beyond the knowledge of most novices. It
is because of this lack of knowledge that a majority of juvenile iguanas die prematurely.
Iguana owners need to be aware of the specialized diet and housing requirements
that the green iguana requires. If looking for a great beginner reptile or
amphibian pet, consider a corn snake, milk snake, ball python, leopard gecko,
bearded dragon, or pac man frog. All of these species are fun and a great way
to begin in the hobby!
General
Appearance:
Iguanas are what most people think of when they
think “lizard.” They have five toes on each foot. They possess a fleshy flap of
skin under the chin called a dewlap. All iguanas have spines that run the
length of the back. Contrary to popular belief, not all iguanas are green. Most
juveniles are bright green, but as they age and grow they can range in color
from a dull green to brown or even orange with striped tails.
Housing
Requirements:
Enclosure:
The enclosure for an adult iguana is very large. The
enclosure should be at least six feet tall, about 1½ to twice the length of the
iguana, and 2/3 to one full length of the iguana wide. For a six foot adult
iguana, this is an enclosure that is 9 to 12 feet long, four to six feet wide,
and at least six feet tall. Sufficient branches and shelves for climbing and lounging
should also be provided. To give you perspective on the size of the enclosure, most
small bedrooms are only 9 feet wide. This is why many owners dedicate a
separate room as their “iguana room.” Some owners also allow their iguanas to
“free range” throughout the house. If you allow your iguana to live in its own
room or free range, be sure the keep the area the iguana will frequent free of
small objects that the iguana may accidentally ingest.
Temperature:
Iguanas come from a tropical climate and need to be
kept warm. Daytime temperatures should be 80º - 85º F with a basking spot of
90º - 95º F. There should be a range of temperatures offered to the iguana to
allow it to thermoregulate itself. Nighttime temperatures should be 75º - 80º
F. All temperatures should be verified with a thermometer regularly.
Heat/Light:
Ultraviolet lighting providing UVA and UVB is
required for proper calcium metabolism and skeletal development. Without the
proper lighting your will become sick and die a very painful death. Proper
lighting can be provided utilizing fluorescent tubes specially made for use by
reptiles as well as mercury vapor bulbs that also provide some heat as well.
Additional heat can be provided utilizing infrared ceramic emitters and incandescent
basking bulbs. Hot rocks should never be used under any circumstance as they
can severely burn your iguana.
Substrates:
Iguanas will often tongue lick their surroundings.
Because of this most particulate substrate (wood shavings, mulch, sand, or
powder types) are not appropriate for most iguanas. Newspaper with non-toxic
ink, butcher’s paper, paper towels, indoor/outdoor carpeting, or artificial
grass all make excellent choices. If using indoor/outdoor carpeting or
artificial grass please be sure that there are no dangling strings that could
tangle in your iguana’s nails. It’s also
recommended that you have multiple pieces so that you may
replace
the soiled pieces with the clean set and then clean and disinfect the current
set to use for the next cleaning.
Environment:
Iguanas come from a tropical climate and require a
humidity level of 65% to 75%. To achieve this may require several mistings a
day. Many people opt to purchase an automatic misting system instead.
Diet:
Iguanas are strict herbivores. Many older
literatures will suggest feeding animal protein or even cat food. While some wild
iguanas may ingest the occasional insect while eating leaves, it is not a significant
portion on their diet. Iguanas that are fed too much animal protein will
develop health problems and will die prematurely. A well balanced iguana diet
will consist of about 40% to 45% greens (this includes, but is not limited to
collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens (with flowers),
escarole, and/or water cress), 40% to 45% other vegetables (this includes but
is not limited to green beans, orange-fleshed squashes (butternut, Kabocha),
snap or snow peas, parsnip, asparagus, okra, alfalfa (mature, not sprouts),
onions, mushrooms, bell peppers, sweet potato, zucchini, yellow squash, and/or
carrots), 10% or less of fruits (including, but not limited to Figs (raw or
dried), blackberries, strawberries, raspberries, grapes, mango, melon (cantaloupe,
honeydew, watermelon), papaya, banana, and/or apple), and less than 5% of other
grains or commercial diets. Iguanas should never be rhubarb as it is toxic. Certain
lettuces such as iceberg, romaine, and Boston butter lack sufficient nutrients
and should only be fed occasionally. Acidic fruits (citrus, tomatoes, kiwi, pineapples,
etc.) should also be only fed occasionally as well. Tofu can be occasionally
offered as well for supplemental protein, though if too much is given it can
lead to long term health issues. Wild plants and flowers are not recommended
since they may be toxic to your iguana or may contain pesticides that could be
toxic as well.
Maintenance:
Cleanliness of the enclosure is essential. Waste
products should be removed daily and the enclosure should be thoroughly cleaned
and disinfected regularly. A 5% bleach solution provides and excellent
disinfectant. Be sure to thoroughly rinse the solution from the enclosure
before placing the iguana back in. Fresh water should also be offered at all
times. Always wash your hands after handling your iguana or any of your
iguana’s cage accessories.
Other
References or Recommended Reading:
Iguanas
require specialized care and we highly recommend that you do further reading on
the
proper
care of your iguana. Please refer to the resources below as a starting point.
Hatfield
III, James W. Green Iguana: The Ultimate Owner’s Manual. Second Edition.
Portland, OR. Dunthorpe Press. 2004
Kaplan,
Melissa. “Green Iguana Care Collection.” Melissa Kaplan’s Herp Care Collection.
Updated
March 25, 2005, Retrieved May 28, 2005 <http://www.anapsid.org/iguana/>
“Green
Iguana Society Care Information.” Green Iguana Society. 2005. Retrieved May 28,
2005.
<http://www.greenigsociety.org/careinfo.htm>